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Monday, 18 March 2013

Candy Striper Button Up Shirt

For reasons I don't quite understand, I'm committed to making the 042010 Long Sleeve Blouse from BurdaStyle work. For all the griping about this pattern, you can go here.

So not great but not awful either. Definitely wearable and I don't think it looks homemade, which is important to me. It's a little less preppy and a little more candy striper than I wanted but I like it OK.

The most important thing about this shirt is that I made it using all the techniques that I learned from David Page Coffin's Shirtmaking. I bought myself the book at Christmas and also borrowed the DVD from the library.

Have you used this book?

I found it to be equal parts fascinating and frustrating. There's so much information but the order makes no sense! All the instructions for each part of the shirt will be scattered through a bunch of different sections, so I basically had to read the thing cover to cover and then flip back and forth searching out the info I needed for any given task.

It did give me very nice results, though.

I even used a rolled-hem foot to make a neat little hem. Have you used one of these feet? Once I got the hang of it it worked like a charm. I also used my flat-felled seam foot, which I'm always pretty delighted by.

In terms of fit, I've got some drag lines from my bust to shoulder and around my upper arm. The back of the collar has a tendency to tug away from my neck, too. I'm going to make another muslin before I make my next shirt, since I'm going to use really nice fabric (if it ever arrives).

I'm pretty sure there's enough fabric to cover my bust so I'm going to try out a forward shoulder adjustment and try adding some width and length to the back across my shoulder blades and see what happens. The fit definitely changed when I went from set-in sleeves to flat constructed sleeves, so I may have to play around with that a bit as well.

Gah! Damn you 042010 Long sleeve blouse! By the time I'm happy, I'm pretty sure that the only part of this pattern that's still original will be the bust dart. I really need to learn how to draft a pattern!


  1. It is cute, the colour looks great on you!

    1. Thanks! I don't usually go for pink but I kind of wasn't thinking when I bought this fabric.

  2. Replied to your query on 'advanced patternmaking' as follows:
    Hi There,
    Had a quick look at your photo and not so much wrong with what I see. I think the shirt is fine. However I think you have slightly square shoulders. So to compensate you could change the angle of your shoulder seam, i.e lift the shoulder seam at the shoulder point by 5-8mm. Will need to include that extra in your flat (ease less) sleeve head.

    Sorry for minimal detail. Have to rush off but let me know if you have any questions. Cheers Anita

  3. Thank you for sharing your button up shirt projects - I'm on a 'perfect shirt' mission myself! Would you mind telling me how you altered the back of this version? I really like how it turned out!

    1. Thanks! I have to caveat my answer by saying that I really have pretty much no clue how to alter stuff. What I did was:

      1. I added a pleat for movement. I just measured in a half inch from the centre back and slashed parallel to the centre back line. Then I spread a half inch at the top, tapering to nothing at the bottom.

      2. I added length. I gave myself an extra half inch at the centre back, added onto the pattern where the back meets the yoke. I tapered to the arm holes.

      I realized that I didn't post any pics of the back. It must not have looked very good. I wear this shirt like crazy, though.

    2. Thanks for getting back to me! I'm no pro myself when it comes to altering or drafting patterns, and I find shirts are especially difficult to get just right, but I think I'm going to give your method a go. Thank you!