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Saturday, 27 April 2013

Bart, Cart, Dart, Eart

So I've learned so much already from the thread I started over at Cutter and Tailor. Amazing! My mind has been pretty much blown.

One thing that took a little fiddling was drafting the darts. More specifically the shape of the darts.

One of Schneidergott's posts has very nuanced instructions for the shapes for front and back darts.

The legs of the back darts are supposed to have a combination of convex and concave shapes to hug your curves and also blend the point of the dart into the fabric so it doesn't give you those awful blubs at the end.

So here's what I did to make sure the contours my the dart legs are smooth and symmetrical.

I drew in the centre line of the dart, and marked where I wanted the dart to end and the amount of intake (the ends of the dart legs)

Next, I drew in straight dart legs and marked 3 cm up from the end of the dart.

Now the tricky part. I used a vary form ruler and french curve to draw in a more anatomically correct dart leg, bowing out (until it crosses the straight line I drew in at the 3 cm mark) to hug the small of my back. Then I did the same, bowing the line inwards so that the dart leg blends into the line formed by the edge of the fold, creating the fullness for my buttocks.

See? Nice smooth blend.

 Than it's just a matter of making the dart symmetrical. I used my pattern making wheel but if you're using tracing paper you can just ...well, trace it.

Yay!

I did a similar thing with the front dart, which is a lot simpler because it only curves inward to give you a convex shape. Again, I blended into the line of the fold.


Budget:

I hadn't bought anything in April until yesterday, when I bought tights ($7), metallic sandals ($50) and fabric and notions to make up this skirt I'm drafting ($50 - I have expensive taste!) so I've spent $107.

2 comments:

  1. I'm impressed by your technical skills here and attention to details! Wow!

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    Replies
    1. Thanks! I've really started to go down the rabbit hole with this stuff.

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