That's where I am with drafting. I'm a little petrified of sleeves (the next step for my torso block) and the book that I was using - Patternmaking For Fashion Design - had to go back to the library and I'm like, 5th in line to get it back again. So I thought I would get stuck in with Cutter and Tailor.
You may remember that I talked a little bit about Cutter and Tailor in my New Year post. I heard about this forum from Chris (thanks Chris!) and I just hadn't had the discipline to get started.
Basically, cutter and tailor is a place for master garment makers to share their knowledge and resources with people who are interested in learning, but in exchange, you're expected to do a lot of learning on your own. Since I'm almost completely self-taught so far, this sounds perfect for me!
Basic apprentices (that's me!) are asked to start with a basic skirt or trouser draft. I decided to start with a skirt because I know how tricky trousers can be!
Here's my first skirt draft!
I used the Rundschau drafting system (instructions can be found here), specifically their draft for a figure with a "prominent seat," of course.
Bam. I'm already happier with the fit of this skirt than any commercial pattern I've tried!
There's a little bit of ease, which is why it's sitting just below my natural waist. I'm going to be adding a lining and a waistband when I actually make up the skirt, should I leave the ease as it is?
One of this things I like most about this pattern is that it has four darts in the back and none in the front! I'm surprised that I can get such a good fit even though there's no centre back seam.
Since the draft has a straight centre back line of the skirt, I cut it on the fold. If I wanted to move the zipper to the back, could I move the two innermost darts into the centre seam? I was really surprised that there was no contouring at the centre back!
What is the best way to correct this? I want it to look more like this.
The waist also dips a little too much in the centre front. Again, should be easy to fix.
Oh, and I need to play with the length to find the right place for the hem because it's a seriously unflattering length right now!
What have I missed? What changes would you recommend?