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Sunday, 7 April 2013

Roadblock!

All I want right now is a shirt pattern that I like and fits well but I feel like I'm going in a million different directions and not getting anywhere. Ugh!

I've been trying to get the Burda pattern working and I've made it three times with different alterations and I'm still nowhere near happy with it.

My last shirt had some weird drag lines at the bust and sleeve and it felt tight across the back so in this version I tried to fix those problems and now I have no idea if this looks good or not!

I think the biggest problem was the way the fit changed when I went from a set in sleeve to a flat constructed sleeve.

So I decided to try drafting my own shirt pattern because why not, right? I'm using online resources and Patternmaking for Fashion Design. But as I get to the final stages of fitting my sloper, I realize that I can't find instructions on how to adjust the pattern for a flat sleeve. All the drafting and pattern manipulation resources I can find assume you'll be using a set in sleeve. 

I know how to reduce the sleeve cap to remove ease but I'm not sure how to make a corresponding alteration to the shoulder/armscye to make sure that the fit is still good. Does that make sense?

Because the ease in the sleeve cap is eliminated, the sleeve ends up feeling a little tight on the point if my shoulder, like maybe I need to extend the shoulder a bit to compensate for eliminating the ease and shaping of a set in sleeve.

Is there a different set of instructions for drafting a bodice sloper and sleeve for flat construction? Is there anywhere (online or in a book) that describes what adjustments have to be made to a basic bodice sloper to use a flat constructed sleeve?

Please help!!!

2 comments:

  1. I think you have to consider a few things :
    1. If you want a flat sleeve, your armhole has to be bigger (you have to lower the side seam/armhole point quite a bit, it's almost a different block.
    2. If this is really what you want, you're going to have wider sleeves, think wearing a man's shirt
    3. If you want a rather fitted sleeve you have to use a set in sleeve (in which you can have minimal/no ease, cf. fashion incubator).

    Good luck!

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  2. I remember that Fashion Incubator article. If a set in sleeve can be fitted and have no ease, then what's the difference in terms of fit between that and a flat sleeve? Can you think of any articles or tutorials that talk about drafting or fitting for a flat sleeve? I'd be happy with a less fitted shirt but now I'm kind of obsessed with learning about flat sleeves.

    Thanks for the comment!

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