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Sunday, 28 April 2013

Skirt draft with high right hip

So if you wander over to the thread I started at Cutter and Tailor, you'll learn that I'm totally wonky. My right shoulder droops and my right waist and hip are high to compensate. One of the changes that was suggested was that I draft a separate right side of the pattern using the measurements of my right hip.

Now, I thought this went against the accepted doctrine that an unsymmetrical garment for an unsymmetrical figure would accent the a-symmetry, but what do I know? So I gave it a shot.

The front certainly looks good! The line is very faint but the centre front is hanging plumb now, whereas it was jutting to my right at the bottom on my last skirt.

The left side is looking pretty good, too, except that there seems to be a bit of extra volume above my buttocks. Hmm...

Again I can see there's some weird stuff happening above the fullest part of my bum.

Whaaa! The altered right side looks kind of sloppy? And there is definitely something weird going on with the upper butt area.

Here's the alteration. I shifted the side seam up 1.5cm from the seat line (the horizontal pencil line at the bottom) and then corrected the centre fold line. You can see there's a significant gap between my old centre fold line (vertical line in pencil near the right hand side of the photo) and the new centre back fold line (in sharpie). I just don't know how to make the alteration without causing the centre fold line to change. ugh.

On the up side, everything is hanging much straighter and the addition of front darts and easing into the waist belt is giving me a much more flattering shape on the tummy, I think.

Any suggestions?

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