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Wednesday, 20 August 2014

Back to the button up shirt

A few years ago I made my first button up shirt (burda's 042010 Long sleeve blouse) and since then I've fallen madly in love with wearing shirts but I have yet to find the perfect pattern.

When I made my first shirt, I didn't like how baggy and relaxed it was so I made some adjustments to the pattern and then chucked it and stared over because I still wan't happy!


Later, I reverse engineered another pattern, which I do like, but I want a more casual look for my next shirt.

I figured I might as well try to draft my own pattern. Right? Right.

Muslin 1:

As always, I used instructions from Patternmaking for Fashion Design. Also as always, my butt kind of gets in the way, made worse by the fact that this fabric is polyester and has more body that I would want in a shirt fabric.

I also also think that I should shape the back where it meets the yoke to reduce the wrinkles at a 45 degree angle at my shoulder blades.

The biggest problem is that it needs to be much longer, which should be pretty easy, and I'll re-shape the side seam to be more subtle below the waist. I'm going to extend the shoulder by about 3/8" so the top of the sleeve isn't quite so tight on my shoulder.

Hmmmm... how do I make it not make me look so pregnant?


  1. Try waist darts in front and back. That's what we do w/ my Campbell & Kate shirts.

  2. Looks like there isn't enough fabric in the front length to cover your bust, which makes the front flare out. You need to get the right amount in the front, and the right amount in your back (sorting out the lower back issue will help there) and then somehow (darts or whatever) make the side seams the same length.
    If it were me I'd sort out the lower back, and that might sort out the bust and flaring out the front issue. Or make it clearer what is happening there.