As I was making the muslins for the Burda Style Elastic Wait Pant, I realized that these pants get super narrow at the hem! I could always get my foot through but I knew that eventually it would distort the hem and maybe even break stitches so for my black crepe version, I tried adding a little split at the bottom of the outside seam. Also, I think it looks pretty chic, right?
I actually borrowed a friend's RTW pants that have this same detail to figure out how to do it myself. That was an awkward conversation for me (but Caela was super cool about it because she's super cool about everything).
Anyway, it's pretty easy but I thought I'd post a little tutorial anyway. Here goes!
Step 1 - Adjust your pattern
Adjust the pattern so that the hem allowance is 2.5" and the seamlines mirror those of the pant leg, allowing the hem allowance to fit properly inside the pant leg when it is turned up. (Here I've just traced the bottom part of a pants pattern to demonstrate)
Along the outside seams, mark points 2" above the hemline and 2" below the hemline. Do this on both the front and back pattern pieces.
Step 2 - Cut out, mark and begin construction
Cut out your pattern pieces and make sure that you transfer the hemline and the guide marks (2" above and below the hemline).
Sew the inseam. I used a flat felled seam.
Finish the raw edges. I recommend overlocking.
Step 3 - Sew the outside leg seam
Step 4 - Remove the basting
Press the outer leg seam open and rip the stitches between the backstitching at the guide marks. Here I've used pins so it's easier to see where the guide marks are.
Step 5 - Fold hem to match guidemarks
Ok. This part is a little tricky to describe but it makes sense once you're actually doing it, I promise!
With the pant leg inside out, take just the seam allowance of either the front or back pattern piece (it doesn't matter which) and fold it at the hemline, bring the guide marks together. Make sure that the opposite piece doesn't get in the way.
Align the crease that you ironed in before you removed the basting.
Basically, you're aligning the seamline from below the hemline with the seamline above the hemline.
Here's another image showing how to align the seamline from below the hemline with the seamline above the hemline.
Step 6 - Stitch one side of the slit
Pin in place. Stitch along the crease from the hemline to the guide marks. This line of stitching should meet the backstitching in the side seam.
Step 7 - Stitch the other side of the slit
Repeat steps 5-7 on the other side of the slit on the same leg.
Step 8 - Finish!
Turn the pant leg right side out and turn the hem to the inside. Use a point turner to turn the corners of the slit.
Use your preferred method to secure the hem - hand stitch, machine stitch or fuse with stitch whitchery.
You're finished! Go you!