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Saturday, 17 October 2015

I think I need help with my winter coat muslin

Hi there friends! I hope I can count on your help with this muslin!

It's been so long since I've used a commercial pattern that I feel like I'm out of practice in fitting.

On a side note, there were very light flurries here today. Winter is right around the corner!

Well, my first muslin is a bit of a hot mess.

  • Collar is gaping and sloppy-looking
  • wrinkling between the bust and the waist
  • front is swinging apart, very slightly.
  • boxy looking through waist (I want it to nip and flare out at the waist, like an A-line dress)
  • Those sleeves are pretty huge, especially below the elbow.

See what I mean about the waist? There's a lot of extra fabric, especially though the bust.

Here's the pinning that I did. I took a bunch of fabric out of the front length, and took a bunch of circumference out of the waist and bust.

Ugh, okay. lots of work to do on the back. Here I've taken it in at and above the waist and pinched out some extra fabric at the back of the neck. I had taken out some pleats and I'll be putting them back in. Because I need more width across the butt. 

Here is the side view, before and after pinning. This is tricky because I feel like the pinned version is less flattering from the side. Ugh, I can't tell. It also looks like it's swinging forward so I've either taken too much length out of the front or I might need to take out a little length from the back at the waist.

Please let me know if you have any ideas!!!

Monday, 12 October 2015

Countdown to Winter

Oh hello friends!

Wow, okay. So I took an unintentional 2-month break from sewing. I took my machine in to the Workroom and long story short, the people who work at the Workroom don't care about their customers.

...Anyway, I've finally got my machine back and it's crunch time for me to make a winter coat.

Remember how I was gushing about Sherlock's coat? Well, I'm going for it!

I'm using V8626, which I had in my stash. It's a little more princess-seam-y and a little less classic menswear-y than I had pictured but I think it will work out just fine with a few (million) tweaks.

The biggest change will be to make it double breasted with a notched collar. The pattern comes with a collared version but the collar is meant to stand up and even overlaps a little. I think it's ugly, so it's gotta go.

My favorite detail of this pattern - and the reason why I bought it in the first place - is the beautiful pleats in the back. I'll be extending the princess seams through the waist seam to the hem, so I can add a cute little belt detail. The belt detail is mission-critical.

Beyond that, I'll also extend the length of the coat, add cute little flap pockets (if it makes sense. I hope it works!) in the princess seams, add patch pockets (maybe), add cuffs (if I can find some info on how to do it).

Speaking of which, does anyone have a tutorial they can share on how to add cuffs to a coat like this?

I've made a preliminary muslin, I'll be posting picks soon because I have no idea how much ease I'll need in this thing. It's pretty baggy. I think my biggest concern is that I want it to be flattering.