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Thursday, 19 May 2016

bias dress progress

Okay so I'm all gung-ho about the bias dress so last week I whipped up a muslin of Vera Venus' Little Bias Dress. With less-than wonderful results..


As I feared, this cut and silhouette don't work for me! Maybe I could have played around with the fit to make the proportions more flattering but I just have the feeling that this is not the right look for a small-chested woman. I also have kind of, like, low hips, I guess? Anyway the high waist is just making my middle look suuuuuuuper long. Not what I'm going for!

Making this muslin also made me realize that I have to work with the streatch of the bias instead of against it. With all of my experience cutting garments on the straight grain, I had the mindset that I had to limit the stretching of the garment until sewn. I sandwiched the fabric in paper to cut out and even stay-stitched and sewed it up with the paper on. What a waste of paper! Since sewing it up and reading more, I've learned my lesson. I'll loosely baste the seams and let it hang before sewing the final dress.

So with the design of the dress up in the air I turned to pinterest for more style ideas. Specifically looking for dresses that hit at the true waist (almost always a good look for me).

McCall 8521. 1930's Vintage Sewing Pattern.  Keyhole back with loose top and figure skimming skirt.  Belted.  #vinsinn  #1930svintage

Yummy! I love the drape-y, Grecian vibe!

30s evening gown stripe plaid? blue bias cut draping long dress low back color illustration vintage fashion McCall 7892 | ca. 1934 Ladies' & Misses' Evening Dress:

Another one of my favorites. Look at that glamorous back neckline! I'm also going to try to steal the bow idea. Hopefully, the trailing tails of the bow will cover any weirdness from having a side zipper.

Not too sure how the shoulders of this one stay on, with the cowl in front and the low V in back. Maybe there is some inner structure or underpinning keeping it in place?

I've started drafting the bodice much like this second pic. It's also been a little tricky trying to figure out how to finish the edges on the bodice. Then I realized that with a cowl I can self/face the entire thing! Right? And the back will be cut on grain, so I can use the usual facings and it will be a bit more secure and hopefully stay on!

More to come as I get closer!

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